Ninja DoubleStack XL air fryer review: Your countertop saviour

The Ninja DoubleStack XL flips air frying on its head with great results from a streamlined design
Written By
Updated on 7 August 2024
Our rating
Reviewed price £270 inc VAT
Pros
  • Great new space saving design
  • Easy to use
  • Fast
Cons
  • Smaller fans
  • Inconsistent cooking
  • Very expensive

One of the biggest problems with large capacity air fryers is that most are too big for compact UK kitchens. Ninjas DoubleStack XL air fryer aims to tackle that issue with a reimagined dual design, which stacks two baskets on top of each other.

Ive not seen an air fryer quite like this before but how does it stack up against its predecessors? In terms of functionality, it’s similar to Ninjas Dual Drawer models, with six cooking functions and a roomy capacity well-suited to family cooking. Its also still incredibly speedy and can cook all your favourites such as roast chicken, chips and fish. However, the main benefit is its design, which has shrunk the fryers width to just 28cm vs the Foodi Dual Zones 41.5cm and the FlexDrawers whopping 49.6cm footprint.

With two cooking drawers stacked on top of each other, the DoubleStack XL is a uniquely designed air fryer. Despite being much slimmer than traditional dual drawer models at 28 x 47 x 38.5cm (WDH), it still has two roomy 4.75l drawers and a generous 9.5l total capacity just 1l less than the mammoth Ninja Foodi FlexDrawer.

In the box, you also get two crisper plates, as well as two stainless steel racks, which allow you to split each drawer into two, for four separate layers of cooking. All parts, including the drawers themselves, are dishwasher-safe. Theres also a cooking times guide and recipes to get your creative juices flowing.

As well as a complete change up to how the drawers are stacked, the screen and functions are now at the side of the machine to maximise the amount of drawer space. Here youll find a dial to switch between six cooking modes: Air Fry, Max Crisp, Roast, Bake, Dehydrate and Reheat. Theres also a button to control time and temperature, as well as the new Double Stack Pro button, which the manual says should be pressed when cooking over four layers. Rather than changing the direction or amount of air flow, this simply brings both baskets up to 240ºC, essentially mimicking what the Max Crisp function does.

At £270, the DoubleStack Pro is one of Ninjas priciest air fryers, coming in joint-top with the Ninja FlexDrawer. Its design is unlike anything Ninja, or any other brand, has produced before. However, function-wise, its almost identical to the slightly less wallet-busting Foodi Dual Zone (£220), which has six functions and a 7.6l capacity. Unless the space saving element of the DoubleStack is an absolute necessity, its well worth considering one of Ninjas slightly cheaper options, as youll still be getting Ninja quality and performance without blowing your budget.

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The DoubleStacks design makes a real difference in terms of space saving. Its 13.5cm narrower than the Ninja Dual Drawer and looks great too; the new colour is a breath of fresh air similar to that of the Ninja Speedi, which I praised for its unique style.The DoubleStack didnt disappoint when it came to results, either. In my energy tests, it used 1.070kWh running both drawers empty for an hour. Based on similar tests Ive run on previous Ninja air fryers and other models, this is around what I expected but thats not to say it isnt energy efficient. If youre running this for an hour, it will only cost you around 23p (as of July 2024), far less than running a standard 3,000W UK oven for the same amount of time.

I found it to be a mostly consistent all rounder while cooking a multitude of classic air fryer dishes. In particular, I found that it made fantastic crispy roast potatoes and coated tofu during day-to-day testing. And despite its smaller size compared to Ninjas other models, I didnt notice a consequential difference in cooking times.

In my tests, 500g of raw potato, cut into chips, cooked in 30 minutes at 180ºC, using one tbsp of oil. Thats a little slower than other air fryers Ive tested, but its still a decent effort and the results proved better than Ive seen with cheaper ovens.

Impressively, I found the DoubleStack can comfortably fit a whole 1.2kg chicken in each of its baskets, making it ideal for big gatherings or cooking roast dinners in record time. That said, the results werent quite as spot-on as when I cooked chicken in its larger sibling, the FlexDrawer, with both chickens looking less crisp.

This is to be expected, though, due to the compact size of the baskets. Theres less room for air to circulate, which can result in a less crispy exterior when cooking larger items. That being said, the results are still very good considering how little space youre working with.

Ninja Double Stack XL Air Fryer, Vertical Dual Drawer AirFryer with 4 cooking levels, 2 Drawers and 2 Racks, Space Saving Design, 9.5L Capacity, 6 Cooking Functions, 8 Portions, Grey, SL400UK

Ninja Double Stack XL Air Fryer, Vertical Dual Drawer AirFryer with 4 cooking levels, 2 Drawers and 2 Racks, Space Saving Design, 9.5L Capacity, 6 Cooking Functions, 8 Portions, Grey, SL400UK

£170.19

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One consistent issue I noticed throughout testing is that food would often brown unevenly, with items at the front of the drawer getting crispier on top than those nearest the fans, something Ive often experienced with conventional ovens. This was easily rectified by turning the food and moving it around the baskets but its not something Ive come across on other Ninja air fryers.

The likely cause of this is the size and positioning of the fans, which are located at the back of the air fryer, rather than at the top. As this is a conscious design choice to ensure the DoubleStack is compact and stackable, Im not sure what the solution would be.

Another small niggle relates to the four-layer stacking. While this model allows you to create four separate cooking layers with the steel racks provided, I found things got quite cramped inside the smaller baskets. Unless you are cooking for two people or fewer, trying to fit four layers into the DoubleStack can cause overcrowding and, as I found, result in less even browning and slower cooking times in some instances.

Much like the FlexDrawer, the DoubleStack XL is very expensive. At the time of writing, it costs £270, which is more than most people will likely be willing to spend on an air fryer. This is a common theme with Ninja products, though, and I imagine the majority of those reading this know theyre looking at a premium product thats going to set them back a fair bit. I certainly wouldnt recommend this to someone as their first air fryer, unless theyre more interested in design than sticking to a budget.

So, who exactly is the DoubleStack XL for and why have I still given it a recommended award? While it’s not Ninjas best air fryer in terms of cooking results and consistency, it does address a really important pain point. Ninjas previous dual drawer iterations are extremely big and arent suitable options for those lacking counter space. The 36cm height might still be an issue for those with low-hanging cupboards, but for most people, the DoubleStack XL is going to save some serious space.

Whats more, I saw some great results during testing and the capacity is fantastic given its size. If youre not entirely sold on the design but still want a more advanced and capable air fryer, you should also consider the Instant Vortex Dual Drawer, which I rated very highly. It has two baskets and a 7.6l capacity and typically costs around £150 during sales periods. Alternatively, the Ninja Foodi Dual Zone boasts similar credentials and can often be picked up for less than £200.

Written by

As Senior Home Editor, Danielle heads up Expert Review’s home content. Alongside commissioning and editing, she’s also passionate about testing and reviewing appliances including air fryers, kettles and everything in between. Before joining Expert Reviews back in 2019, Danielle had a five-year-long career as a freelancer, writing for national magazines and websites such as Woman’s Own and At Home Magazine. As well as a decade of writing experience, Danielle is also NCTJ accredited and has an MA in Multimedia Journalism.

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